Kilt-plait gage



(Model.)

S. R. CAMP.

KILT PLAIT GAGE. No. 439,106. Patented 0013.28, 1890.

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v UNITED STATES PATENT OEE-TCE.'

SECELIA R. CAMP, vOF REED CITY, MICHIGAN.

KILT-PLAIT GAG E.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 439,106, dated October 28, 1890.

Application filed August 22, 1889. Serial No. 321,688. (Model.)

' To all whom it may concern.-

zen of the United States, residing at Reed City, in the county of Osceola and State of Michigan, have invented a new and useful Reversible Kilt-Plait Gage, of which the following is a Specification.

My invention is a reversible kilt-plait gage for use in dress-making; and my said invention consists of a board of suitable length, preferablyin two longitudinal sections hinged together, at the top and bottom of which board are arranged Series of pegs, the Spaces between which are numbered, a gage, and a Shaper, all constructed and arranged to operate Substantially as and for the purposes as will be hereinafter more fully described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof.

The object of this invention is to facilitate the forming of kilt and box plaits in ladies dresses, which, as now usually made by hand, is a difficult and tedious process, and at the .same time to have each plait of the proper shape or taper that they will t the form perfectly without requiring to be hung and adjusted by hand.

In carrying out my invention I proceed as follows, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, wherein- Figure l is a plan view of a reversible kiltplait gage constructed according to my invention. Fig. 2 is a view of the Shaper, and Fig. 3 is a view of the gage. Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view of the board with gage and Shaper in place.

The letters A A indicate the board, preferably in two sections, hinged together and of any suitable length and width for the purposes intended. At the bottom of these boards is arranged a series of pegs c, which are placed twelve-Sixteenths of an inch apart, and near the top edge of said boards, just forty-live inches from the bottom pegs, is a similar series of pegs b, which are seven-sixteenths of an inch apart. Below the pegs b is a series of marks c, the spaces between which are foursixteenths of an inch in width. The width of the spaces between the pegs a and b and marks c, relative to each other, must be in the proportion stated-that is, twelve- Sixteenths for the bottom, sevensixteenths for the hips, and foursixteenths for the Waistso as to obtain the proper shape of plait to fit the form. Commencing at the hinge edge of the board the spacesbetween the pegs are numbered consecutively toward the outer edge of the board, and arranged adjacent these pegs a and h are Screw-eyes d to receive rods e for the purpose of holding the Shaper and gage in place when plaiting, if such be found necesary.

B, Fig. 2, indicates the shaper, and C, Fig. 3, the gage. As shown, the gage C is of an equal width from end to end, while the Shaper B is straight upon one edge and tapered upon the other so as to form a wide portion, as at B which I call the take-up.

To use the device to form kilt-plaits, the straight edge of the shaperis toward the hinge of the boards and the wrong side of the cloth next the board, while in box-plaits the Shaper is in the opposite direction and the right side of the cloth next to the boards, so that by reversing the position of the parts either box or kilt plaits may be formed, as well as fanplaits. One half of the plaits are made on one side of the board and the other half on the other board. The pegs at the top and bottom of the boards are to hold the Shaper and gage in place while plaiting, the ends of said Shaper andgage being inserted between said pegs and so held, if necessary, by the rods e, that are passed through the screw-eyes d and rest upon the top of said gage and Shaper, as shown in Fig. l, and the gures arranged adjacent the Spaces between Said pegs are to tell how large a plait to make.

To make what is known as No. 3 plait, the cloth, wrong side down, is first Spread upon the boardsu The Shaper B, with its straight edge toward the hinge of the board, is now placed upon the top of the cloth and with its ends between the pegs at the top and bottom of the board in space 3. Next the gage C is run under the cloth-and then carried over the Shaper B, so as to fold the cloth over the top of Said Shaper B and the ends of Said gage C placed in space 1. This, as shown in Fig. 4, will form three thicknesses of the 'materiah which is folded twice upon itself and the plait formed. These folds are now basted together to within about four inches of the top edge, as Shown in Fig. 1, which unbasted portion IOO is held by pins until all the plaits are made, when this edge is brought to the Waist-spaces c and then basted down.

To make the next plait, the shaper is placed in space 6 and the gage brought over to space 4, and the third plait is made by placing the shaper in space 9 and the gage brought over to space 7, and so on until all the plaits have been made on one side of the board when the sane operation is repeated on the opposite s1 e.

To make what is known as No. 4 plait, the shaper is Iirst placed in the space 4 and the gage brought over to space l, Which makes a Wider fold of the material than space 3.

As before stated, it is essential that the spaces at bottom, hips, and Waist be proportionately or relatively the same, as herein stated, which will give the proper fold and taper to the plaits and make them fit properly into the belt or Waist and also form the swell or bulge at the hips without becoming bias.

To get the proper shape or it at the waist after all the plaits have been made, as hereinbefore described, the top edge of the garment is brought to the Waist-figures, which Waistgures may be placed at any desired part of the board, as they are simply marks on the board and are not projecting pins, as at the bottom and hip lines, and are notused until all the plaits have been formed, and the front edge of the rst plait placed at space 1 of said Waist-line. The pin is now removed from the second plait and the front edge of this plait brought to space 3 of said waist-line. The pin in the next plait is noW removed and the front edge of this plait adjusted to space 5, and so on until all the plaits have been adjusted into proper shape, and as each plait is.so adjusted to the proper Waist-figures it is basted across the top to hold itin place until all are finished.

Having thus fully described my invention, I claiml. In a kilt-plait gage, the board having series of spaces at bottom, separate series of spaces at the top representing the hips, and separate series of marks representing the Waist, with gures corresponding to each series of spaces arranged adjacent said bottom, hip, and Waist spaces, combined with ashaper and a gage, substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

2. The combination, in a kilt-plait gage, With the board in two sections hinged together and having a series of pegs at its bottom and series of pegs at its top and spaces representing the Waist-line, each having corresponding tignres, the gage C, and Shaper B, substantially as shown and described, for the purposes specifled.

3. In a kilt-plait gage, the board having a series of pegs at the bottom and a similar series of pegs at the top representing the bottom edge and hip-line of the plaits, respectively, and a series of spaces representing the Waist, each with corresponding iigures, said spaces at the hips being of less Width than the spaces between the pegs at the bottom line, and the spaces at the Waist-line being of less Width than those at the hip-line, combined with a gage C and shaper B, as described and shown, for the purposes specified.

4. In a kilt-plait gage, the board with series of spaces at bottom and series of spaces at top of less Width than the bottom spaces, combined with a gage and a Shaper beveled or tapered at one end, substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

SECELIA R. CAMP.

Witnesses: t

MELVILLE STONE, CoRA L. STONE. 

